Project - Feminine Tops

There's been a resurgence in soft, fluid tops on the runway and in the stores, and I must say I'm happy to see that! Button front georgette blouses, boho silk tunics, chiffon poet's blouses - the styles are endless. You can dress them up or down by pairing a feminine top with jeans or tights. Wear one to the office under a blazer with trousers or a slim skirt. I love the carefree style and how non-constricting they are compared to slinky knit tops or crisp cotton shirts. I made two of these tops recently from a vintage pattern - Butterick 6037.

A few modifications were made in the first top as I didn't have quite enough fabric. I omitted the facings and bound the neckline in self-fabric instead. I also included a center front seam to accommodate the neck binding.

On the second top below, I lengthened the sleeves. Otherwise everything else was true to the pattern.

 

Project - Vintage Button-up Shirt

I love vintage sewing patterns and have collected them for quite some time. I use a combination of vintage and contemporary sewing patterns for many of my projects. The style details of past patterns are unique and quite often you won't be able to find these little touches in modern patterns.

I wanted to make a casual button-up shirt and found the perfect pattern in my vintage stash.

Simplicity Pattern 7912 circa 1977

The thing that drew me to it most was that the blouse had raglan sleeves instead of the typical set-in style sleeves. Raglan sleeves are quicker and easier to sew - exactly what I was looking for. 

To shorten the sewing time even further, I used snap fastener buttons (no sewing on buttons and no buttonholes!). 

This pattern will definitely be one of my staple patterns for a classic, button-front blouse from now on!

Tip - Shop Safely Online

The holiday season is already here and you know what that means - lots of shopping and lots of bargains! I love online shopping for the convenience, merchandise variety and deals you can find. Plus, you can avoid the crowds and hassle of looking for parking.

While shopping online can be fun, (and maybe a little addictive) there is also a darker element associated - online fraud. After working at several online organizations, I have seen my fair share of online crime being committed. That still hasn't deterred me from shopping online though. Many merchants are legitimate sellers, but it still pays to do your due diligence so you can avoid becoming a statistic. Here are some tips I use that you can follow:

1) Research the merchant or website

Search the internet for reviews of the merchant. Read about other customers’ experiences to see if this is a merchant you want to do business with. Do not simply check the rating scores, read any comments left in their entirety as they can offer true insight on the merchant. There are review sites you can check, as well as individual seller feedback at online marketplaces. 

2) Check the merchant’s site for contact information

A genuine merchant will take the time to provide contact information and other details about their site. Take a look at the entire site, paying attention to the “About Us” pages and others which may contain company information. Contact the merchant and ask questions about their products if you are still unsure. This will also give you a sense of their quality of service and response times.

3) Research the product

Check the manufacturer’s website or search the internet to see if the product is only sold through authorized dealers. Some manufacturers are extremely guarded with their trademarks and patents, so be careful of purchasing counterfeit and stolen goods.

4) Compare prices

Make sure you do some price comparison by checking out reputable sites for an average price. If the merchant you are looking to buy from offers the item at a very low price, this should set off some alarms. For example, if several large retail chains are unable to sell an iPhone 5 for $300, it would not make sense that a random merchant is able to. The product could be counterfeit, stolen or non-existent and you want to avoid these types of transactions.

5) Pay using your credit card or an eWallet solution

Potentially fraudulent transactions can be disputed or charged back through your credit card provider if necessary. Keep in mind that charge-backs are serious and should only be done if the transaction is actually fraudulent.

eWallet solutions like PayPal and Google Wallet also have dispute processes in place to help if any complications arise. Do not pay “off site” or through unsupported payment methods if purchasing items at an online marketplace.  A fraudulent merchant may refund your payment immediately then ask you to re-pay through a different method, or to a different account. In addition, they may ask you to pay with untraceable payments like Western Union or Moneygram, which you should avoid.

Take all these factors into account when shopping online so you can have a safe and enjoyable experience. Remember to go with your instinct and if you have any doubt, shop elsewhere. If it’s too good to be true, then it usually is.

How-to - DIY Curtain Calculations

Curtains can be costly to buy or have custom-made, especially if you want quality materials and workmanship. If you can sew a straight line and take some measurements, you can make your own at a fraction of the cost. Below you will find the steps to calculate the amount of fabric you need to sew your own curtains.

  

Measurements will be taken in inches and converted to yards or meters. The two styles of curtains typically sewn are gathered or pinch pleats.

!  There are 36 inches in one yard and ~ 39 inches in one meter.

1.      Decide on the style of curtain you wish to sew – gathered or pinch pleats

1.1.    Gathered curtains have a multiplication factor of “2”

1.2.    Pinch pleated curtains have a multiplication factor of “2.5”

2.      Measure your window frame width from wall to wall

2.1.    Add 10 inches (25cm)to the measured width

*   This will allow 5 inches (12.5cm) per side for seam finishing etc.

3.      Measure your window frame height from top to bottom

3.1.    Add 12 inches (30cm)to the measured height

*   This will allow finishes of 5 inches (12.5cm) for the header and 7 inches (17.5cm) for the hem

4.      Choose your fabric and measure the width from selvage to selvage

! Most standard fabric widths are 36, 45, and 54 or 60 inches; specialized drapery fabric can be wider.

5.      Determine if the fabric has an obvious pattern that repeats or a “nap”

*       No – Proceed to Step 6

*       Yes – Measure the length of the repeat interval (ex. The pattern repeats itself every 20 inches) and proceed to Step 6

6.      Multiply the total width measurement in Step 2.1 by the multiplication factor for your  chosen style of curtains in Step 1

7.      Take the number in Step 6 and divide it by your fabric width

1.1.    Is the number a whole number? (ex. 5 or 5.1)

*       Yes  – Proceed to Step 8

*       No  – Round the number up to the next whole number and proceed to Step 8

! The number in Step 7 will be the number of fabric panels or pieces required to cover your window from the fabric width and style chosen.

8.      Determine the total length of fabric required in inches

1.1.    For fabrics with no obvious pattern repeats or a "nap", multiply your number of fabric panels in Step 7 by the total height measurement in Step 3.1

1.2.    For fabrics with a pattern repeat or "nap", divide the total height measurement in Step 3.1 by the repeat interval measured in Step 5 (this will determine the number of pattern repeat intervals per fabric panel)

1.2.  

1.2.1. Is the number a whole number? (ex. 100 or 100.2)

*       Yes  – Proceed to Step 8.2

*       No  – Round the number up to the next whole number and proceed to Step 8.2

2.       Multiply the whole number by the repeat interval in Step 5

3.       Multiply your number of fabric panels in Step 7 by the number in Step 8.2

9.      Convert the total inches of fabric required for your curtain project to the appropriate measurements.

1.1.    For fabric requirements in yards, divide your number by “36”.

1.2.    For fabric requirements in meters, divide your number by “39”.

10. Round the converted number up or down for fabric purchase.

Project - Cardigan and Scoopneck - Redux a Turtleneck

Last year, I really got into cardigans for their comfort and style versatility. They can be dressed up or down and are certainly much more chic than the hoodies I had worn for a while. I was trying to find the perfect cardigan, but somehow finding one proved difficult. I'm a picky shopper and try to buy things I will actually wear. On one of my shopping excursions I noticed some turtleneck sweaters that were on clearance. They had all the elements I wanted in a cardigan, except that they were pullover tops. That didn't deter me! They were inexpensive enough that if my reduxing didn't work out, the money spent wouldn't break the bank. I came up with a plan, bought three of them, one each in black, grey and fuchsia pink (I'm also a notorious bulk buyer - when the price is right, I can't help it!) and began the redux. 

I started with one sweater first and cut up the center front. I bought the sweater about three sizes too large so there would be some extra fabric to play with. I had extra fabric from the sleeve ribbings which were very generous. I was able to cut two patch pockets and two narrower sleeve ribbings from the original piece. I sewed the new sleeve ribbings on and marked and sewed on the patch pockets. I didn't finish any of the raw edges on the center front or the patch pockets. The knit fabric was fine enough that I knew it wouldn't ravel or get ratty in the wash. I did the same to the remaining two sweaters and now I have three stylish cardigans!

On another outing, I found an awesome deal on Nicole Miller turtleneck tops in slinky, black rayon/spandex - only $3.99 each at my local Costco! I ended up buying two - one to wear as it was and another to redux. I hadn't planned out what I would do to the top, but I bought the second one three sizes too large again. After a while of contemplating, I decided to keep it simple and redux the turtleneck into a scoopneck top with a shaped, baseball shirt style hem. I love this hem shape as it gives femininity and interest in a subtle way. Changing the hem and neckline of a top are easy ways to freshen your wardrobe without spending money for something new.

Just in - Vintage 80s toys

Retro Fraggle Rock cars and Glo Bug! Don't they just bring back fond memories of your childhood?!

Fraggle Rock car toys - came with McDonald's Happy Meals back in the 80s

Glo Bug - glow in the dark

Project - Dining Set Redux

This next project I tackled is home dec related. I don't normally do home dec projects, but it was either try and redux this dining set or shell out a few hundred dollars for a new one. I chose the former and added chair cushions, covers and even recovered the table top with a water proof nylon.

Before

I had all the materials needed (fabric, stapler, double-sided tape) so all I invested was my time. The fabric came from my extensive cache (which could do with some reduction) and for the chair padding I used pieces of foam mat (the kind used in children's play rooms etc.). As a side note, these mats are wonderful for laying on your floor and cutting out fabric and patterns. I don't have a large cutting table so I lay my fabric and pattern pieces on the floor, on top of these mats to prevent damaging the floor.

I'm quite pleased with the finished product. This dining set has been through three moves and has dings and dents as a result. Reduxing gives it new life until I'm ready to upgrade.

After